Runway Review: Galliano Winter 2003/4

Welcome to the 1940s, but not as you know it...

Galliano's Winter 2003/04 runway show was a vibrant and dynamic exploration of feminine discovery. The fashion showcase, backed by the beats of a jazzed-up 'Boogie Woogie Bugle Boy' and bathed in the glow of neon lights, was a definitive display of Galliano's ready-to-wear collection. From amplified shoulders and expert draping to exaggerated stuck-on eyebrows and childlike-drawn-on red lips, the show was a grandiose representation of the evolution of femininity.

The show began with a look reminiscent of a women's World War II uniform, yet it was anything but classic. Khaki green and pencil skirts were softened by flamboyant shoulders. The elevation and floral prints brought a feminine touch to an otherwise masculine piece. This was followed by similar pencil skirts in ruby, lemon yellow and dark rose. Shoulders that pushed out from the body made waistlines look impossibly small, pulling away from the typical harsh structure of military-style garments. Trousers were taken away from the masculine through flowy fabrics and paired with floral blouses, that showed sensual yet subtle hints of skin – an open back or plunging font.

This was followed by pin-up style lingerie - bustiers, corsets, garters, and playsuits so tight and short they resembled dance shorts left little to the imagination in muted flesh-like tones. These, however, seemed far more practical to only be sensual items. These are items that are meant to be seen and worn on the daily, not simply banished to the boudoir. The overtly sexual was then swiftly covered up with the introduction of knitwear. Powder-pink, oversized pom-pom jumpers that hugged the knees marked Galliano’s transition into day wear. Silk dresses followed quickly, some classic and others twisted into elaborate silhouettes that were a medley of florals, keeping the lively and flamboyant theme of the show.

The collection transitioned smoothly into evening wear, showing off sophisticated yet eccentric designs. The gowns demonstrated dramatic and eye-catching structures, still with the flamboyance, bows and frills seen in earlier looks. These pieces were shown in deeper, more intense tones than what had previously been seen: fuchsia pink, black and emerald green still with hints of florals.

Subversion was a constant theme throughout the collection. The revved-up Andrews Sisters, twist on militia and florals for Fall (now that is ground-breaking,) all defy the norms. With a twist on 1940s aesthetics, Galliano reimagined the decade through an avant-garde and maximalist lens, turning convention on its head and creating an alternative universe – one where the rationing and practicality of the era do not exist. This was the 1940s, but not as we know it - this was the 1940s in Galliano's vision.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pHYhzyduSUs

All images from Vogue Runway